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Heat Pump & Furnace Quick Tune: Do This Before the Freeze

A 30–45 minute checklist to keep your home warm, safe, and efficient during winter cold snaps.

1) Filters first

  • Replace or wash your HVAC filter.
  • Set a reminder to check it every 30 to 60 days in winter.
  • With pets or heavy dust, check monthly.

2) Thermostat test

  • Raise the setpoint a few degrees and confirm the system starts smoothly.
  • Fan mode should be “Auto” unless advised otherwise.
  • Verify schedules for wake, leave, return, and sleep.

3) Vents and returns

  • Open supply vents in occupied rooms.
  • Do not block return grilles with furniture or rugs.
  • Vacuum dust from covers and grilles for better airflow.

4) Heat pump outdoor unit

  • Clear leaves, branches, and snow within 2–3 feet.
  • On a mild day, gently rinse debris from the coil.
  • Steam or frost during defrost cycles is normal.

5) Furnace basics

  • Keep 3 feet of clearance around the unit.
  • Check outdoor intake and exhaust pipes for nests, leaves, or snow.
  • If you smell gas, shut down and call a pro right away.

6) Condensate and drain lines

  • Confirm the drain line is not kinked or clogged.
  • Empty the condensate pump if full and restore power.
  • A small splash of white vinegar can deter algae if approved by your pro.

7) Humidifier (if installed)

  • Set humidity to about 30–40% in winter.
  • Replace the pad if it is coated with minerals.

8) Simple energy wins

  • Weather-strip drafty doors and add a door sweep.
  • Open curtains on sunny days and close them at night.
  • Close the damper on unused fireplaces.

9) Safety checks

  • Test smoke and carbon monoxide alarms; replace batteries now.
  • Keep space heaters 3 feet from anything that can burn. Plug directly into a wall outlet.
  • Keep clear access to the breaker panel and main water shutoff.

10) Signs you should call a pro

  • Heat runs constantly or short cycles
  • Strong fuel, burning, or electrical smells
  • Loud scraping, banging, or squealing
  • Cold air from vents while heat is on
  • Tripped breaker or repeated error codes

Quick checklist

  • Replace filter
  • Test thermostat and heat
  • Open and vacuum vents and returns
  • Clear 2–3 feet around outdoor unit
  • Check intake and exhaust pipes
  • Confirm condensate line is clear
  • Test smoke and CO alarms

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Articles & Advice

The Winter Gutter Checklist (15 Minutes, Big Payoff)

Quick steps to keep meltwater moving, protect your roof and siding, and avoid surprise leaks.



Why this matters

In winter, clogged gutters trap water. When it refreezes, ice pushes under shingles and overflows onto siding and walkways. A few minutes of care keeps water away from your house and helps prevent ice dams.

What you need

  • Stable ladder and a helper (if possible)
  • Gloves and safety glasses
  • Small scoop or gutter trowel
  • Bucket or yard bag
  • Garden hose with spray nozzle (on warmer days)
  • Gutter guards brush (optional)

Your 15-minute checklist

  1. Walk the perimeter. Look for sagging gutters, gaps at joints, and downspouts that dump near the foundation.
  2. Clear the top layer. From the ladder, scoop out leaves and needles near downspouts first. Work toward the corners.
  3. Open the downspouts. Make sure the top inlets are clear. If safe and above freezing, run brief water to confirm flow.
  4. Extend the flow. Add downspout extenders so water discharges 3 to 6 feet away from the house.
  5. Check hangers and pitch. Tighten loose brackets. Gutters should slope slightly toward the downspout.
  6. Scan for icing spots. Shady areas and roof valleys freeze first. Plan extra checks after storms.

Tip: If it is below freezing, skip the hose test and stick to debris removal and visual checks.

After each storm

  • Knock off small icicles from ground level only. Do not chip ice from the gutter with tools.
  • Use a roof rake to pull the first 3 to 4 feet of snow off eaves. Less snow means less meltwater feeding the gutters.
  • Re-check downspout outlets and extensions after plowing or shoveling.

Safety first

  • Set the ladder on solid, level ground. Keep three points of contact.
  • Avoid metal ladders near power lines.
  • Do not climb on an icy roof. Use tools from the ground whenever possible.

Smart upgrades for winter

  • Downspout extenders to push water away from the foundation.
  • Drip edge and flashing tune-up to guide water into the gutter.
  • Gutter guards to reduce debris (still inspect a few times each season).
  • Heat cable in trouble spots installed by a pro for ice-prone eaves and valleys.

When to call a pro

  • Gutters pull away, sag heavily, or leak at seams
  • Water stains on fascia, soffit, or inside ceilings
  • Regular ice dams along the same edge of roof
  • Two-story access you cannot reach safely

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Articles & Advice

Frozen Pipes Playbook: Prevention & What to Do If It Happens

Simple steps to protect your home before a hard freeze, plus calm, safe actions if a pipe freezes or bursts.

Why pipes freeze and where it happens

Cold air finds the weak spots. Pipes that run through unheated spaces are the first to freeze. That includes garages, crawl spaces, basements, attics, and exterior walls behind kitchen or bathroom cabinets. Wind and drafts speed up freezing. Once water turns to ice, it expands and can split the pipe.

Quick prevention you can do today

  • Disconnect garden hoses and add insulated faucet covers outside.
  • Insulate exposed pipes in garages, crawl spaces, and basements with foam sleeves or wrap.
  • Seal drafts around sill plates, rim joists, and where pipes/wires enter. Use caulk or spray foam.
  • Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls so warm air can reach the pipes.
  • Let faucets drip during hard freezes. A slow, steady drip keeps water moving.
  • Know your main water shutoff and test it once so you can turn water off fast.
  • Heat set to 55°F or higher if you are away. Do not turn the heat completely off.

Before a hard freeze: quick checklist

  • Close crawl space vents if your local code allows
  • Cover or insulate pipes near garage doors and drafty areas
  • Move space heaters away from anything that can burn and plug them directly into a wall outlet
  • Set a reminder to check sinks on exterior walls morning and night

If a pipe is frozen but not burst

  1. Open the faucet (hot and cold) for that run.
  2. Warm the pipe slowly. Use a hair dryer, heating pad, or towels soaked in warm water. Start at the faucet end and work back toward the cold area.
  3. Never use an open flame or a torch. That is a fire risk and can ruin the pipe.
  4. Watch for leaks as the ice melts. If you see water spraying or dripping from a split, go to the main shutoff at once.

If a pipe bursts

  1. Shut off the main water valve right away.
  2. Turn off power to any area where water may reach outlets, appliances, or a breaker panel. Safety first.
  3. Open faucets to drain remaining water from the system.
  4. Contain the water with buckets, towels, and a wet/dry vac. Move rugs and furniture.
  5. Document damage. Take clear photos and short videos for your records.
  6. Call a licensed plumber for repair. If sheetrock, insulation, or flooring is wet, contact a water-damage pro as well.

After the thaw: prevent a repeat

  • Add pipe insulation or heat tape to the trouble spot.
  • Seal the draft that caused the freeze in the first place.
  • Consider moving vulnerable lines away from exterior walls during a remodel.
  • Check your water heater, fixtures, and shutoff valves for slow leaks.

Handy supplies to keep on hand

  • Foam pipe sleeves or insulation wrap
  • Outdoor faucet covers
  • Spray foam and exterior-grade caulk
  • Hair dryer or heating pad
  • Wet/dry vac and extra towels
  • Thermometer for garage or crawl space

When to call a pro

  • No water at one or more fixtures and you cannot find the frozen spot
  • Any sign of a split pipe or a steady drip after thaw
  • Frozen main line, meter, or pipes you cannot safely reach
  • Repeat freezes in the same area, which points to a draft or layout issue

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Articles & Advice

Ice-Dam 101: Stop Roof Leaks Before They Start

What ice dams are, early warning signs, quick fixes you can try, and when to call a roofer.

What is an ice dam?

An ice dam is a thick ridge of ice that forms along the cold edge of your roof. Warm air inside your home melts snow higher up on the roof. The water runs down, refreezes at the eaves, and builds a barrier. Water can then back up under shingles and leak into the house.

Signs you may have a problem

  • Large icicles hanging from gutters
  • A thick band of ice at the roof edge
  • Water stains on ceilings or exterior walls after a thaw
  • Peeling paint or damp insulation in the attic
  • Drafty rooms or a musty smell near exterior walls

Quick prevention you can do today

  • Rake the roof after snowfalls. From the ground, use a roof rake to clear the lower 3 to 4 feet of snow.
  • Keep gutters clear. Clean leaves in fall and check downspouts so meltwater can flow.
  • Open attic vents. Make sure soffit and ridge vents are not blocked to keep the roof deck colder.
  • Seal warm air leaks. Foam or caulk gaps around lights, hatches, plumbing stacks, and wires.

Safe short-term fixes if ice forms

  • Create melt channels. Fill long socks with calcium chloride ice melt and lay them across the ice so one end hangs over the gutter. Do not use rock salt.
  • Rake again. Remove loose snow above the dam to reduce meltwater feed.
  • Manage leaks inside. Place a bucket under drips. Pop a small hole in a bubbled ceiling to relieve pressure and direct water into the bucket.

Do not: chip ice with tools, spray hot water, or use open flames or heat guns.

Long-term fixes that solve the cause

  1. Air seal the attic. Seal gaps around can lights, fans, plumbing, and the attic hatch.
  2. Add insulation. Aim for your local recommended R-value. Many cold zones target R-49 to R-60.
  3. Improve ventilation. Clear soffit vents and add baffles so insulation does not block airflow.
  4. Vent exhausts outdoors. Bathroom and kitchen fans should not dump air into the attic.
  5. Consider heat cables. Self-regulating cables can help in problem areas when installed by a pro.
  6. Upgrade during re-roof. Ask for ice and water shield along eaves and valleys.

When to call a roofer or insulation pro

  • Active leaks, sagging drywall, or stained ceilings
  • A thick dam that grows after each storm
  • Steep roofs or limited access
  • Projects like air sealing, added insulation, or ventilation changes
  • Installing heat cables or upgrading underlayment

Simple checklist for the next snow

  • Rake the lower 3 to 4 feet of roof snow
  • Keep gutters and downspouts open
  • Watch for new icicles and ceiling stains
  • Place calcium chloride socks if water is backing up
  • Schedule an attic air seal and insulation review

FAQs

Do gutters cause ice dams?
Gutters do not cause ice dams by themselves. They can make icicles look worse. The root cause is warm air escaping into the attic and melting roof snow.

Are heat cables a cure by themselves?
Heat cables help in tough spots, but air sealing and insulation are the main fix. Many homes use both.

Should I clear the whole roof?
No. Removing the lower few feet is usually enough. Never climb on an icy roof.

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Articles & Advice

Winterize Your Home: Simple, Real World Tips (That Actually Help)

Cold snaps are rough on houses. A little prep now saves money, avoids leaks, and keeps things comfortable. Here’s a practical guide you can knock out over a weekend plus a few smart upgrades when you’ve got time. No fluff.

1) Heat & Air: keep warm air in, cold air out
Furnace/heat pump

  • Swap the filter (set a phone reminder for every 30–60 days).
  • Run the system once before the first freeze; listen for odd noises.
  • Clear 2–3 feet around outdoor heat pump units; brush off leaves.
  • Programmable thermostat: set 68–70°F when home, lower at night.

Vents

  • Open and vacuum floor/ceiling registers.
  • Don’t block returns with furniture.
  • Close gaps around doors/windows with adhesive weather-strip and a door sweep.
  • Use rope caulk on drafty window sashes peels off in spring.
  • Close the damper on unused fireplaces (and plug with a chimney balloon if you never use it).

2) Plumbing: freeze prevention = cheap insurance

  • Garden hoses off, spigots drained. Add outdoor faucet covers.
  • Insulate exposed pipes in basements, crawl spaces, and garages.
  • Know where your main shutoff valve is. Test it once.
  • In hard freezes, open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls and let faucets drip a pencil-thin stream overnight.

If leaving town: set heat to at least 55°F, and ask a neighbor to check in.

3) Roof, gutters & outside basics

  • Clean gutters so meltwater can flow. Add downspout extenders 3–6 ft away from the house.
  • Look for missing shingles, cracked vents, or loose flashing small fixes now stop ceiling stains later.
  • Trim branches that touch the roof; wind + ice = shingle damage.
  • Check walkways and steps; bag of ice melt (pet-safe) on hand helps.

4) Doors, windows & insulation

  • Attic: if you can see joists, you probably need more insulation. Aim for 10–14 inches total (varies by climate).
  • Basement/crawl space: seal gaps where pipes and wires enter with foam or caulk.
  • Windows: if they’re leaky, add clear shrink-film kits for winter cheap, big payoff.
  • Curtains help too: open on sunny days, close at night.

5) Safety checks (do these)

  • Smoke & CO detectors: test, replace batteries, and put one near bedrooms and by the furnace area.
  • Fireplace/wood stove: have chimneys inspected/cleaned if you burn regularly.
  • Keep a flashlight and small space heater (tip-over/overheat protection) for emergencies.
  • Inspect around tubs, showers, and sinks. Recaulk cracked lines to block moisture and cold drafts.
  • Check the water heater: drain a gallon from the tank to remove sediment; insulate the first 6 ft of hot/cold pipes on top. A water heater blanket helps older tanks.

7) Garage & vehicles

  • Weather-strip the garage door; it’s a big heat leak.
  • Store a winter kit: ice melt, shovel, windshield washer fluid, jumper cables, gloves.

8) Energy savers that pay back

  • Smart thermostat: learns your schedule, trims energy use.
  • LED bulbs: cold weather friendly and low wattage.
  • Outlet/switch gaskets on exterior walls tiny cost, noticeable draft fix.
  • Power strips for media/office gear; switch off phantom loads.

9) If you work from home

  • Move your desk away from drafty windows.
  • Use a door draft stopper for the office.
  • Space heater rule: keep 3 ft from anything that burns; never leave it running unattended.

10) Quick weekend checklist

Outside

  •  Clean gutters / extend downspouts
  •  Disconnect hoses / cover spigots
  •  Check roof edges & flashing
  •  Trim branches off the roof

Inside

  •  Replace HVAC filter; test heat
  •  Weather-strip doors / add door sweeps
  •  Seal window drafts (rope caulk or film)
  •  Insulate exposed pipes
  •  Test smoke & CO detectors
  •  Find and test main water shutoff

11) When to call a pro

  • Furnace/boiler won’t start, smells odd, or trips breakers.
  • You see roof sagging, soft spots, or interior ceiling stains.
  • Frozen pipe you can’t reach or a burst line (shut water off first).
  • Chimney cleaning, major electrical work, or new insulation in tight spaces.

Zeamie J